2 Weeks in Italy
May 1998
Best things about the trip
Unexpected surprise - we loved Rome!
Memorable, fun, and unique experience buying leather jackets in Florence
Impromptu opera while having dinner in Florence
Worst things about the trip
Restaurants closed during the hours we were ready to eat.
The crowds in Florence
Italy highlights
photos
Rome
Into Rome via London
Hotel Adler, near Termini train
station
Roman Forum
Nice comfortable place, with super owners. Our original room was large,
overlooking the street. We were pretty jet-lagged out from the trip and because
this room was so close to the dining room we heard all the foot traffic on the
beautiful wood parquet floors from the very start of the breakfast prep.
The Colosseum or Roman Coliseum
Rome was wonderful. We were lucky to run into a young American tour guide as he
was giving a tour of the Colosseum - we tagged around after them instead of
joining the tour. I was impressed with his fast-paced style so we met him for a
tour of the Roman Forum fifteen minutes later. He had an interesting life story
- he was a theology student when he came to Rome. Fell in love with Rome (and
apparently a young Italian lady), gave up his studies and started giving tours
to Americans. He said there aren't many good English speaking guides, and I can
appreciate that! (We overheard some tour guides where their accent was very
pronounced. Also, many of the guides do the tours in multiple languages so you
have to wait around while the guide explains everything in different languages.)
Back to this tour guide...he had been in Rome for two years and put together his
tours by researching books, travel books, etc. His script was great! At the
Colosseum he had a large group, however our tour of the Forum included only one
other couple. In front of the place where Julius Caesar was killed, he quoted a
famous passage from Shakespeare's "Julius Caesar."
We enjoyed his Forum tour so much we told him we would join his "fountains of
Rome" tour that night. That was a great way to see the sights at night and feel
very safe while we got familiar with the twisting, turning streets of ancient
Rome. At that time these tours were about $20.00 a person, cash collected right
after the tour, and then we tipped after the nighttime tour.
Michelangelo's Moses at San Pietro in Vincoli
In Rome we stayed about a 15 minute walk from the "ancient" part. I had wanted
to stay somewhere around the Campo del Fiori, but the hotels mentioned in Rick
Steve's and other guide books were booked and we didn't want to fool around
trying to change hotels while we were there. So every night we walked down
(literally, because our hotel was on higher ground than the ancient city) and
wandered around looking for places to eat and looking at the ancient sights
which are beautifully lit at night. Consequently, we found ourselves at the
Trevi Fountain every night because it was on our way back to the hotel. Always a
lot of people just sitting around there so we sat around too. If we ever go back
to Rome, I'd like to get a hotel in the ancient part, although not around Trevi
Fountain because it is never quiet.
Bernini's canopy inside St. Peters
Ostia Antica - nope, St. Peters
I wanted to go see the ruins of the ancient Roman ocean port Ostia Antica. So we
bought some sandwiches, snacks and water bottles and took the train to the port
city on Monday. It was closed! All the guidebooks and tourist information said
it was open that day but it wasn't. There's nothing else there, so we took the
train back to Rome and went to see St. Peters.
Actually that worked out OK because we had plenty of time to look around St.
Peters instead of trying to see it and the museum in the same day. If you have
time for a tour of St. Peters, look for an American seminary student inside. We
had just arrived and I was doing my usual bit of reading to Steve from the guide
book when 2 young men in long black robes approached us and asked if we would
like a tour! Part of their responsibilities at the Vatican is to make themselves
available to American tourists and show them around. That was wonderful! St.
Peter's is huge and we got the inside information on the monuments and Popes
that were buried there.
Leaving Rome
All the guide books mention the roving thieves in Rome. We had an eye-opening
experience only on the day we were leaving. Out hotel was only a few blocks from
the train station and we had cumbersomely wheeled our luggage up and down curbs
and cobblestones getting to the hotel. Now we were doing the same going back to
the train station - struggling up and down curbs and cobblestones - when three
little girls started circling us and saying what sounded like "mi-mi-mi-mi" in
their piping little voices over and over again. One of them held a newspaper in
front of her and tried to get close to Steve (who was wearing a waist-pack)
while the others tried to separate me from him. It was obvious that the strategy
was to confuse and separate us while the newspaper hid what her hands were
doing. I was shouting "don't let them near you" to Stephen, we were shouting
"get away" to them, but they were persistent until Steve finally pushed, slapped
or shoved at the girl in front of him at which point they backed off glaring and
I suppose cursing. She had gotten the zipper to his waist pack about halfway
open.
That was our only bad experience but it was enlightening. The books were right,
when you are struggling with luggage you are a target.
Tip: Take luggage that not only has wheels but also has backpack straps
so you can carry it over those old streets instead of wheeling it.
5 days in Rome was great and seemed just right.
Next up: train to Florence
Michelangelo's magnificent David at the Galleria Dell'Accademia
Florence
Hotel La Scaletta, large lovely room
with french doors opening to a small balcony overlooking the street. The hotel
was in a great location across the Arno, unfortunately we couldn't enjoy opening
the doors due to the traffic noise.
The first stop for us was the Galleria Dell'Accademia to see Michelangelo's
David. We spent over an hour there gazing at this masterpiece. Imagine this,
you're in line to to see The David and you overhear two Americans say "It's HOW
much? I'm not going to pay THAT", and they left. We couldn't believe it, these
tourists actually left Florence without seeing one of the great works of art of
the Rennaissance! Warning: In 1998 you could take pictures in the
Accademia, but photos are now banned
David 2 Leather factory, Via del Corso, 47/r
Another David, this one specializes in leather
Finished the David, the Duomo, the Baptistry and now standing on the street
flipping through pages from the guidebook. Up walks a stylish Italian man and
young lady, "Can I help you find something?" and after a few helpful exchanges
and two great tips on where to have dinner, Franco says "You're a luntzman,
right? I have a leather factory, why don't you come to my showroom and try on
some coats? I'll give you a good price"
What the heck, sure! Franco took us upstairs to his office at
David 2 Leather Factory and we had a
great time, some champagne, with staff running up and down the stairs bringing
us a variety of gorgeous leather coats to try on. Ended up with 2 beautiful
leather coats and an experience to remember. Priceless!
Opera with dinner at Osteria da Quinto, Piazza Peruzzi, 5/R
Trattoria is now Osteria delle Brache
Franco's restaurant tips
Franco's first restaurant suggestion ended up being another priceless
experience. We went to Osteria da Quinto and were enjoying a leisurely meal,
noticed we were about the last people in the place when a group of 4 came in and
sat at a corner booth not far from us. Presently, the owner of the trattoria
started singing - Opera! Then one of the men in the booth stood up and started
singing - Opera! We were delighted and enthusiastic listeners! As the evening
progressed and we were spontaneously entertained, a bottle of champagne was sent
our way courtesy of the party in the booth. And the party was on... The group
was Rolf and his wife, with the owner of Galleria d'Arte Mentana (Rolf is an
artist), and the opera talent we enjoyed was...sadly, I don't remember his name.
Florence view from Piazzale Michelangelo
We had a great time, Rolf was a super guy and the only one in the party who
spoke English, translating everything and with some interesting personal stories
of life in Germany and Italy.
Sidetrip to Siena
Bus from Florence to Siena
Interesting place
Rather rude waiters, we didn't WANT to eat 4 full courses! Race cars around the
sloping center "square"
5 days in Florence was great
Next up: train to Venice
Venice
Venice fish market view from our third floor room at Pensione Guerrato
Hotel Pensione Guerrato, near the
Rialto Market in San Polo
Palazzo Barbarigo with mosaics of Murano glass on the Grand Canal, Venice
Great respite from traffic and scooter noise. Best Chinese food ever.
After Rome and Florence, Stephen is getting a bit "cathedraled out" but we
loved Venice!
We walked everywhere in every city, but in Venice you are walking over big and
little bridges and you aren't facing vehicle traffic wherever you go. The
respite from traffic was wonderful.
St. Marks square with Basilica San Marco
Glass Factory Tour Crash
Wandering around San Marco square, we saw a glass factory. So we go in. A tour
is going on, well.... might as well join in! Saw some glass blowing and after
that demonstration we were singled out from the rest of the people and informed
that we couldn't continue with the tour we butted in on. We were escorted
directly to the showroom. I don't know where else the tour went, but they all
ended up in the showroom in a few minutes.
Funny thing, we saw a chandelier in the showroom that seemed just right for the
house we were building. We didn't buy it on the spot, we bought it the next year
through the mail and now it's our beautiful chandelier with memories. We still
think it's funny we were kicked out of the tour.
London
Fly out of Venice to London
Tower of London
The best tip of this trip came from a little advance reading (Frommers or
Fodors, don't remember which). You can get a ticket for the Tower of London at
the metro! We walked out of the metro, saw the long line of tourists, turned
right around and bought our ticket from the metro cashier. Tickets in hand we
walked past all the tourists, up to the Beefeater at the entry and were escorted
through with a flourish. Felt like royalty :)
Hotel - $300 a night and no water for the morning we were leaving
Tip: Probably easier and cheaper to take the metro rather than a taxi from your
hotel to the airport.
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